Crimps and Terminals: I use open barrel terminals, which are crimped by my very special and expensive crimpers. These types of crimps are used by auto makers on all vehicle wiring today, because they are secure and long-lasting. I'm used both tin plated Amp terminals, and brass terminals made by Yazaki here in Japan.

What you won't see on the Kits are my excellent open barrel type crimps. That's because they are either hidden inside plugs or sockets, or completely shrink wrapped. Below are some close-up photos of my high quality crimping.

Wire Stress Relief and Sheathing: All wires are sheathed with high temperature VOX sheath, and all terminals (where possible) are protected with high quality heat shrink tubing for extra protection and stress relief.

Zip-Ties Included: All kits now include plenty of Cable Ties for attaching the kits to your bike. This allows a tidy install and avoids problems when wires are moved or pinched. Poor wire routing and tying up is one of the biggest reasons for wiring problems on a bike. Poorly crimped terminals and corroded connections are other reasons.

See here for comparison photos of my relays and other relays.

Fuseholder Connector on Relay Kits:

Some Kits use bullet connectors on the fuseholder, This allows easy removal of the fuseholder in order to run the wires through the frame or headlight grommet.

Other Kits have the fuseholder connect directly to the relay, or the main wire is extended by connection to the fuseholder with a high quality butt connector that is covered completely in shrink tube.

Other Relay Kits: Some other websites sell relay kits that come with a bunch of wires, cheap terminals, and parts. My kits come totally pre-assembled and with all wiring sheathed, connecting terminals installed, and ready to attach to your bike. You end up with a factory quality system, not a bunch of wires you have to connect yourself with poor quality terminals and connectors.

Wiring kits that come with many after-market lights and horns often have marginal quality components and are thrown together as an afterthought to go with the kits. Or they are often designed for use on cars. You have to be an expert to sort them out, modify, assemble, and install them. My kits are designed and built to do a specific job and do it with excellence.

Grounds: Another really big electrical problem on bikes is poor grounding. That is why all of my Kits have their own ground going right back to the battery. It takes a bit of extra wire but ensures a great ground connection without attaching a ground to the bike's frame somewhere and hoping that it is a good ground.

I would suggest that you check, clean and reattach all the bike's main grounding points while installing a Relay Kit. It's always a good idea to make sure all your grounds are well connected. Sometimes installing a kit may disturb other ground wires and create a problem. Be careful and thorough while you go about installing a Relay Kit, to make sure you don't have a problem later.

Previous Owners and Other Notes: Be careful what the last guy who owned your bike did to it. Many amateur wiring jobs done in the past turn out to be a problem later on. The reason is often poor quality terminals and crimps.

Take the time to check all your bike's wiring while installing a kit. Any obviously amateur splices or connections should be fixed properly. Even on a brand new bike, do not assume that everything is as it should be from the factory. Dealers have been known to do some poor wiring as well, since they are primarily mechanics, and not electrical technicians in many cases. If you notice any strange smell, noise, or visual clue on the bike at any time, do not continue to drive the bike until you have found your problem. Usually a vehicle gives plenty of warning before a problem actually happens. The smell of burning electrical parts is distinctive and requires immediate action. Be careful and seek help if you get in too deep.