Regulator/Rectifier Connectors and Kits

NOTES FOR ALL R/R UPGRADES: I have different choices of R/R connection methods, depending on if you want the complete Kit, the connectors with leads, or the connectors only. Many people go directly to battery as my complete kit does. This bypasses the stock 30A fuse and eliminates the connector usually found between the R/R and the 30A fusebox. On older bikes this is always a good thing, on a newer bike you can connect to the stock wires which left the R/R. You can even connect to the stock connector if it’s still in excellent condition. However, these connectors have proven to be the weakest point, so many replace it entirely or go direct to battery and eliminate it. One less connection is always a good thing. Also many use a sealed connector where they do have to replace a connector, to better resist future corrosion.

ON THIS PAGE: Connectors, Wiring Kits, Other types

Furukawa QLW .250” Connectors for FH020, FH012, FH011, FH010, FH009, SH775, SH847, maybe others

3 Position Female .250 Waterproof Connectors - in two sizes to fit up to 10 AWG wire

NOW AVAILABLE TO FIT 10 AWG WIRE

Individual Connectors

  Extra Parts

S size fits wires to 3 sqmm (12 AWG). L size fits wires to 5 sqmm (10 AWG). QLW250 L Male $0.45 Quantity: QLW250 S Male $0.36 Quantity: QLW250 L Female $0.45 Quantity: QLW250 S Female $0.36 Quantity: QLW250 S Seal (grey) $0.38 Quantity: QLW250 L Seal (red)  $0.42 Quantity: QLW250 Plug $0.45 Quantity:

These R/R units use Mosfets and run cooler, plus they’re more efficient. So if your stock R/R unit has burned out, maybe it’s time to move to a newer Mosfet type unit as shown here. Mosfet R/Rs model names start with the letters FH. Old type models start with SH. Below is a late model Yamaha R1 unit, the FH012..

Help Links:

- Look here to see how to solder and insert wires into a connector terminal.

FH020AA/FH012AA/011/010/009/SH847 Complete Kits

- for Regulator/Rectifier Units type FH020, FH012, FH011, FH010, and FH009 only (these connectors also fit the new SH775 type units - if the connections look the same then these fit - large 3P sealed, one grey, one black).

Also see the Extras Page for identifying the alternator leads connector on your bike and for more info.

Part A - the Battery Connection:

Part A - R/R Unit to Battery - 36” (92cm) 12 gauge 100 C wire, sealed fuseholder, and high temp sheathing. Battery ring terminals and Sumitube shrinktube are included, as well as cable ties and two 30A fuses. Hook-up is direct to battery, bypassing the stock 30A fuseholder on the bike which can be a problem with age.

Part A is now only available with the Metri-Pack 630 ATO/ATF full size blade fuseholder shown to the right. The MP280 is a good fuseholder, but for this application I feel the larger size fuse gives better conduction and less heat.

- battery terminals are left off so you can trim wires to fit - solder them on for best results

- if you use crimp-on battery terminals, you MUST use a good crimper for a good connection, this is VERY IMPORTANT! For best results, crimp/pinch and solder on the ring terminals that are included with this Kit. And make sure you use the Sumitube on the terminals for wire strain relief and moisture resistance. Put the Sumitube pieces over the wires before attaching the ring terminals!

Part B - the Alternator Connection:

Part B - Now in two lengths, 14” (36cm) or 20” (48 cm).

Three yellow 14 AWG 100C wires with high temp sheathing plus connectors.

You have a choice of either a Yazaki, Sumitomo, or Sealed Metri-Pack 3 position connector. If the connector terminals on your bike are in bad shape, you can replace with any of these types. I highly recommend complete replacement for maximum efficiency and long trouble free life. See the bottom of this page for help identifying what connector is on your bike.

See the Extras Page for identifying the connectors on your bike.

Metri-Pack 280 Connector Sealed Option for Part B Above

I now offer you the choice of a sealed connector to replace whatever is on your bike now. This will help ensure a corrosion free connector. However, you will have to replace the connector now on your bike. This means cutting the wires, stripping, and either crimping or bending/soldering three terminals in place, then clipping them into the new connector body and plugging in Part B. (One extra terminal  is included). Order extra terminals and seals here.

When you order Pt. B with this option, the male half comes installed on Part B as you can see above. On the left is the mating half of the connector which you install on your bike’s wiring to replace the stock connector. One extra terminal is included. You can order more further down this page. This is a large connector, very rugged and waterproof. The terminals and seals are quite easy to work with, even if you’re pinching and soldering. NOTE: Unless you have the right crimper for this job, I suggest you pinch and solder. You want a really good connection here.

FH020AA, FH0101AA, SH847 Connectors with Leads

Black (Pt A) and Grey (Pt B) are now available separately and in 2 lengths: 28” (71 cm) or 56” (142 cm).

Long Pt B wires can go straight to the alternator (solder onto alternator).

All wires high temp with high temp sheathing

Battery leads - red and black 12 AWG

Alternator leads - three yellow 14 AWG

Solder them on, use your own connector, buy a connector, and DIY the way you want.

You can take the alternator wires directly to the alternator on the bike avoiding the extra connector entirely.

With these units, the difficult and important R/R connectors are pre-made for you. You can trim the wires to the exact length you need for your installation.

Buy a Metri-Pack 630 Fuseholder and fuses here.

FH008/016/Generic Complete Kits

- specially for Regulator/Rectifier Units with wire pigtails built in like the FH008, but will fit most stock R/R Units with wiring coming out of them. The FH020, FH014, FH012, FH011, FH010 and FH009 all require special connectors as shown above on this page.

NEW - Now with Furukawa QLW 2P Connector for the R/R Output Connector.

The 3P MetriPack 280 Connector is included for the alternator input Connector

This Kit supplies sealed connectors for both the battery and alternator connections. It is designed to more efficiently take your Regulator/Rectifier’s output directly to the battery using a heavy duty inline fuseholder.

Kit includes the output wiring with Metri-Pack 630 ATO fuseholder, two 30A ATO type fuses, 4 cable ties, two battery M6 ring terminals, two pieces of Sumitube shrinktube, matching 2P Furukawa QLW connector male half, and a complete 3P MetriPack 280 connector (1 extra female terminal, 1 extra male terminal, and 1 extra seal is included).

NOTE: Some FH008 R/Rs (and other older SH types) have two output pairs of smaller gauge wires. These can be inserted into the 2P Furukawa QLW connector in pairs. See this page for how to do this.

Stock R/R Units

Most bikes use unsealed type connectors and these are the biggest cause of problems later, due to corrosion causing resistance which then causes arcing and eventual meltdown and loss of current flow.

Therefore if your R/R unit is still working, you can upgrade its wiring using the FH008 R/R Kit. This Kit gives you everything you need to replace both connectors with sealed types and go direct to battery.

The 30A stock fuseholders used on many bikes can become a problem. This Kit will also avoid any present or future problems with that unit.

Want to make your own Kit? See the links below to buy components separately.

The sealed MetriPack 280 and 630 connectors are available separately here.

The sealed Furukawa QLW connectors are available separately here.

Metri-Pack 630 Fuseholder and extra fuses are available separately here.

NEW 6P Sealed Furukawa R/R Connector

As found on many new smaller displacement motorcycles.

Generic 5 Pin R/R Connector Type

Some bikes use the type pictured  below which contains the 3 yellow alternator wires plus larger green and red output wires (could be in pairs). Why wait until yours melts down likely taking out your R/R Unit. If you're on a budget and your R/R unit is in decent shape but  has some years on it, simply replace the connector, clean up the R/R  tabs and you should be good for many more years.

This is an example of what can and does happen. Replace your connector before it happens! If you are installing a new replacement R/R unit you MUST replace the connector too - even if it looks fine. Connector and new terminals $4.75 Quantity: Housings and terminals here.

Please note orientation of the locking clip in this photo. There is a similar connector with the clip on the bottom. I do not have that one sorry.