Finding the exact type of an automotive connector can feel like detective work. This guide breaks the hunt into focused sections so you’ll know what to look for and where to look. Use it as a checklist while you inspect the plug, take photos, and search.

1) Sealed or unsealed — start here

Why it matters: sealed connectors keep moisture, dirt, and salt away from terminals; unsealed ones are cheaper to manufacture and used where environmental exposure is low.

How to tell:

Look for a rubber/ elastomer gasket around the mating face or between the shell halves — that’s a sealed connector.
Inspect the back where wires enter: individual rubber wire seals (small molded donuts) or a continuous boot = sealed.
If you see exposed plastic cavities where the wire enters and no rubber, it’s likely unsealed.
Other clues: automotive engine-bay harnesses are often sealed; interior/trim connectors are often unsealed.
What to record: “sealed” or “unsealed”, presence of wire seals, presence of a shell/boot, any rubber gasket color/shape.

2) Terminal size (and wire size) — the electrical heart

Why it matters: terminal/contacts are sized to accept a specific wire gauge and be used within specific current ratings. Most manufacturers design connectors based on standard terminals sizes. Yazaki and Sumitomo and many others, often use sizes like .025″, 0.040″, .090″, .250″ and many more ( some in between sizes ). Knowing the terminals size is the 2nd most important step in tracking down the connector you need. So we can say matching terminal size is a crucial step in identifying what you need.

How to measure or identify:

If you have calipers: measure the width of the male contact or the blade towards the front of the terminal (in mm or inches). Record it.
Note wire gauge printed marking or measure wire insulation diameter and refer to an AWG chart (common automotive wires: 8–20 AWG; most signal wires 20–26 AWG).
Inspect the metal contact if visible. Common automotive contact families accept 0.5–3.0 mm² (roughly AWG 22–12).
If no tools: use your best estimate to the size in mm or reference to a 1/4 inch. For wires, consider how thick the conductor looks vs known wires (headlamp power wire will be thicker than a sensor signal wire).
What to record: visible contact dimensions mm or inches, wire gauge (AWG or mm²), , solid vs stranded wire, any marking on the connector that indicates terminal series.

3) Clip or latch type — how it snaps together

Why it matters: the latch style determines mating/un-mating method and helps identify the series. All connectors of a certain series, will use the same latch method. Take the Sumitomo SL .090″ series. The latch is a press down “T” shaped piece with a wide section running to the mating face. The HS series, on the other hand, utilizes a rectangular section as the latch ( will add images shortly ). By learning the type of latches used by manufacturers, we can quickly narrow down the search.

Common latch types and how to spot them:

Single tang latch: a plastic protruding tang that snaps into a slot on the mating half. You depress the tang to release.
Side clip / metal tang: sometimes a metal spring clip is used; look for metal on the connector body.
Secondary latch / backlock: an extra plastic piece that must be opened/removed before the primary release — often present on multi-pin packs.
Lever or cam-lock: larger connectors (e.g., high-current or waterproof) may have a flip lever.
Push-fit / friction: no visible latch — coupling held by friction or a threaded ring (on circular connectors).
Sealed bayonet: turn-and-lock with rubber seals.
What to record: latch location (top, side, back), plastic vs metal, presence of secondary lock, release direction (push down, pull tab, flip).

4) Seal type — what kind of sealing is used?

Why it matters: helps narrow to series (Deutsch, AMP Superseal, Tyco/TE seals, etc.) and tells you what replacement seals or tools you need.

Seal features to note:

Individual wire seals: small molded rubber sleeves around each wire where it enters the connector.
Face seal / flat gasket: a flat rubber ring at the mating face that compresses between housings.
Boot/overmold: rubber covering most of the connector body and wire exit — common on sensors.
O-ring / circular seal: on round connectors (rotary or waterproof circular types).
No seal: nothing obvious — likely unsealed.
What to record: number of seals per wire, material feel (soft rubber vs hard), whether seals are removable, color and any markings.

5) Design style — form factor & family clues

Why it matters: overall shape and construction point to manufacturer families and standards.

Design cues to note:

Rectangular multi-pin housings: very common; count cavities in rows (e.g., 2×3 = 6 cavities).
Round/cylindrical connectors: often sensors or aftermarket accessories.
Blade/spade style: flat blades used for power/ground in relay sockets and older harnesses.
Modular/stacked: small rectangular housings for signals (JST, Molex microfit style).
High-current single-pin: large terminals in individual housings (battery, starter).
PCB-mount: connector has solder tails or right-angle legs for circuit boards.
Crimp vs soldered contacts: crimp contacts are common for wire harnesses.
What to record: shape (rectangular, round), cavity count and arrangement, visible part numbers molded on housing, whether pins are female (sockets) or male (pins).

6) Google Image Search — use photos to match visually

Why it matters: quickly finds visually similar connectors and often leads to datasheets or part numbers.

How to do it effectively:

Take clear photos: mating face, side profile, latch, wire exit, any markings. Include a ruler or coin for scale. The use Google Image search using the Camera Icon to upload your image.
Use keywords: combine counts + features. Example: 6 pin sealed rectangular automotive connector 6 cavity rubber seals latch top.
Try brand + feature if you suspect one: Deutsch 6 pin sealed connector, Sumitomo 090 6 pin.
Use Google Lens / reverse image search: upload your photo to find visually similar images and pages.
Look for close-up images with datasheets in results — those often contain part numbers.
If the image search returns many of the same brand (e.g., lots of “AMP Superseal”), follow those links and confirm by comparing small details (latch shape, groove patterns).

Tips:

Add “datasheet” to search terms to prioritize technical pages.
If the connector is on a harness from a particular OEM, add the vehicle make/model and year to the search.
If nothing matches, broaden to “automotive wiring connector sealed 6 pin”.

7) Scan through connector/manufacturer sites — the deep dive

Why it matters: manufacturer datasheets give exact dimensions, terminal sizes, mating info and cross-reference numbers.

Practical scanning steps:

Start with the big automotive connector makers — search their catalogs (e.g., TE Connectivity, Molex, JST, Yazaki, Sumitomo, Delphi/Packard, Deutsch). (Even if you don’t know the exact one, catalogs are organized by feature.)
Use site filters: filter by number of cavities, sealed/unsealed, pitch or terminal size, and latch type.
Open the PDF datasheets: check housing part numbers, mating halves, terminal part numbers, sealing types, and full dimensional drawings.
Compare drawings to your photos: measure one or two dimensions on the drawing and compare to your caliper/ruler measurement of the real connector.
Check cross-reference / part search: many manufacturers let you search by keywords like “6 way sealed automotive”.
Search distributor sites (e.g., Eastern Beaver Inc, RS Components etc) — they have filters, pictures, and datasheets that are easy to browse.
Look for service/repair info: some OEM or after-market pages show how to remove terminals, replacement seals, and specialized tools (extractors, crimp tools).

What to look for in datasheets:

Exact part numbers for housing, mating halves, terminals, and seals.
Terminal dimensions and recommended wire range.
Mating/un-mating force and IP rating (if sealed).
Assembly drawings and exploded views.
Material and temperature ratings.

8) Quick field tools & tricks (what to bring to the connector)

Calipers or a small ruler (mm).
Magnifier or phone macro camera.
Notebook/camera to record photos of all sides and a scale reference.
Small pick or terminal release tool (careful — for inspection only).
Multimeter for continuity to figure out which terminal does what (if identifying function matters).

9) Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Mistake: identifying by color alone. Avoid — colors vary by manufacturer and production year.
Mistake: assuming sealed = Deutsch or unsealed = JST. Don’t assume—verify by latch and seal geometry.
Mistake: counting pins but not checking if every cavity has a terminal (some cavities are empty). Inspect the metal inside.
Mistake: buying replacement by photo alone. Always confirm terminal size and mating part numbers from datasheets.

10) Short checklist to carry with you

Take 4 photos (mating face, latch side, back/wire entry, side profile) with a ruler.
Record: sealed/unsealed, wire gauge, terminal visible type (male/female), cavity count and layout.
Note latch type (single tang, secondary, metal clip, lever).
Measure one clear dimension (width of housing or pitch between cavities) in mm.
Use Google Image Search with a photo + keywords.
Check major manufacturer catalogs and distributor filters for matches.
Confirm with datasheet: terminal size, part numbers, seals.

Example search phrase templates you can copy-paste

6 pin sealed automotive connector rubber seals top latch datasheet.
rectangular 2×3 6 cavity automotive connector female sockets IP67.
single tang latch 4 pin connector wire seals 4 cavity Sumitomo

Article written by Eastern Beaver Inc & ChatGPT.