Regulator/Rectifier Connectors and Kits
Table of Contents
NOTES FOR ALL R/R UPGRADES:
We have different choices of R/R connection methods, depending on if you want the complete kit, the connectors with leads, or the connectors only. Many people go directly to battery as my complete kit does. This bypasses the stock 30A fuse and eliminates the connector usually found between the R/R and the 30A fuse-holder. On older bikes this is always a good thing, on a newer bike you can connect to the stock wires. You can even connect to the stock connector if it’s still in excellent condition.
FH020AA/FH012AA/011/010/009/SH847 Wiring Kits
– Look here to see how to solder and insert wires into a connector terminal.
FH020AA, SH847AA, FH012AA, FH011AA, FH010AA, FH009AA Lead Set
Battery leads – red and black 12 AWG.
Alternator leads – three yellow 14 AWG.
You can trim the wires to the exact length you need for your installation
Part A - the Battery Connection:
Rectifier DC Side Fused Cable – QLW 3 Pin
– MetiPack 630 ATO/ATF sealed fuse holder.
– Battery terminals are left off so you can trim wires to fit – solder them on for best results.
– If you use crimp-on battery terminals, you MUST use a good crimper for a good connection, this is VERY IMPORTANT! For best results, crimp/pinch and solder on the ring terminals that are included with this Kit. And make sure you use the Sumitube on the terminals for wire strain relief and moisture resistance. Put the Sumitube pieces over the wires before attaching the ring terminals!
Part B - the Alternator Connection:
Part B – Now in two lengths, 14” (36cm) or 20” (48 cm). Three yellow 14 AWG 100C wires with high temp sheathing plus connectors.
Rectifier AC Side Cable – QLW 3 Pin
You have a choice of either a Yazaki, Sumitomo, or Sealed Metri-Pack 3 position connector. If the connector terminals on your bike are in bad shape, you can replace with any of these types. I highly recommend complete replacement for maximum efficiency and long trouble free life. See the bottom of this page for help identifying what connector is on your bike.
3 Pin QLW 250 Female Sealed Connector
FH014AA Wiring Kits & Connectors
FH014AA Rectifier Lead Set
Used on older Honda’s and other brands, the FH014AA is a mid power rectifier. These are replacement lead sets, using quality components. Hand assembled in Japan.
FH014AA Rectifier Wiring Kit
Shindengen FH014AA replacement lead set. 70cm or 27.5″ long. Yazaki pure copper multi-strand wire.2mm2 used on rectifier side and 3mm2 used on battery side.
FH014AA Rectifier Lead
Shindengen FH014AA replacement rectifier lead 70cm or 27.5″ long. Yazaki pure copper multi-strand wire.2mm2
FH014AA Rectifier Lead
Replacement stator side cable for FH014AA rectifier. Includes splices to join to existing stator wires, or solder direct to stator coils ( high temperature wire ).
FH014AA Battery Lead
Shindengen FH014AA replacement battery lead. 70cm or 27.5″ long. Yazaki pure copper multi-strand wire.3mm2 used on battery side.
FH014AA Battery Lead
Replace your old rectifier to battery lead with this quality cable cable. Multistrand copper Yazaki wire, protected by Sumitomo high temperature sleeving. Includes M6 ring terminals (not shown).
FH014AA Fused Battery Lead
FH014AA Battery side lead. Fused at 30A. Sealed fuse holder. Yazaki pure copper multi-strand wire. 3mm2. 92cm or 36″ length.
FH014AA Fused Battery Lead
Replacement rectifier to battery cable with inline 30A sealed fuse. For added safety on older bikes.
3 Pin Sumitomo 8.0 ( .312″ ) Connector [Female]
Used to connect to FH014AA rectifiers. Make your own cables or replace a damaged connector on your bike harness.
2 Pin Sumitomo 8.0 ( .312″ ) Connector [Female]
Used to connect to FH014AA rectifiers. Make your own cables or replace a damaged connector on your bike harness.
SH781AA Wiring Kits & Connectors
SH781AA Rectifier Lead
The SH781AA has one connector with both DC and AC connections. Made using Yazaki wire and terminals. Sumitomo sleeving.
SH781AA Rectifier Lead
SH781AA rectifier cable. Use for customer builds or to replace OEM damaged cables.
SH781AA Rectifier Connector
Connector for SH781AA rectifiers
Please note orientation of the locking clip in this photo. There is a similar connector with the clip on the bottom. I do not have that one sorry.
Sumitomo Hybrid 5 Pin Connector – ‘Rectifier’
Connector, female that connects to the SH781AA type rectifier. Replace burn out connectors with quality original parts.
This is an example of what can and does happen. Replace your connector before it happens! If you are installing a new replacement R/R unit you MUST replace the connector too – even if it looks fine.
TL1000R/S Rectifier Adapter Cables
Suzuki TL1000 Rectifier Adapter Cable FH020AA, [32800-02F00]
SH781AA rectifier cable. Use for customer builds or to replace OEM damaged cables.
Suzuki DL1000 Rectifier Adapter Cables
4 Pin connector for DL1000 is different ( we will update the image shortly ) Correct connectors will be on the ordered cables.
Suzuki DL1000 Rectifier Adapter Cable FH020AA, SH847
Rectifier adapter cable for the DL1000. Allows use of the FH020AA Mosfet rectifier as a replacement ( upgrade ). Also works on the SH847 Series rectifier ( size is bigger than OEM rectifier ).
FH008/016/Generic Complete Kits
– specially for Regulator/Rectifier Units with wire pigtails built in like the FH008, but will fit most stock R/R Units with wiring coming out of them. The FH020, FH014, FH012, FH011, FH010 and FH009 all require special connectors as shown above on this page.
NEW – Now with Furukawa QLW 2P Connector for the R/R Output Connector.
This Kit supplies sealed connectors for both the battery and alternator connections. It is designed to more efficiently take your Regulator/Rectifier’s output directly to the battery using a heavy duty inline fuse-holder. The Kit includes the output wiring with Metri-Pack 630 ATO fuse-holder, two 30A ATO type fuses, 4 cable ties, two battery M6 ring terminals, two pieces of Sumi-tube shrink tube, matching 2P Furukawa QLW connector male half, and a complete 3P Metri-Pack 280 connector (1 extra female terminal, 1 extra male terminal, and 1 extra seal is included).
NOTE: Some FH008 R/Rs (and other older SH types) have two output pairs of smaller gauge wires. These can be inserted into the 2P Furukawa QLW connector in pairs. See this page for how to do this.
Most bikes use unsealed type connectors and these are the biggest cause of problems later, due to corrosion causing resistance which then causes arcing and eventual meltdown and loss of current flow. Therefore if your R/R unit is still working, you can upgrade its wiring using the FH008 R/R Kit. This Kit gives you everything you need to replace both connectors with sealed types and go direct to battery. The 30A stock fuse-holders used on many bikes can become a problem. This Kit will also avoid any present or future problems with that unit.
FH008 FH016 Complete Kit
– specially for Regulator/Rectifier Units with wire pigtails built in like the FH008. Comes with sealed connectors eliminating corrosion problems found with un-sealed connectors.
Unlike the larger FH rectifiers that have built in connectors, these units come with leads. The rectifier original un-sealed connector can be removed and replaced with this Metri-Pack 280 sealed connector. The sealed connector keep moisture & dust out, providing for higher reliability. The bike side connector also needs to be replaced. Use the female connector on the stator side.
Other Rectifier Connectors
2 Pin QLW 250 Sealed Connector
6P Sealed Furukawa R/R Connector
General Information
Mosfet rectifiers are newer technology than SCR’s ( older rectifiers ) and run a little cooler as well as being more robust. They are generally “Short” type in that like older SCR rectifiers, then dump excess current to ground.
Series rectifiers such as some SHXXX models are more like taps, in that they turn the output on/off to control current flow. Series rectifier/regulators are generally considered to be easier on Stators, in that power is used only when needed. However they do like any rectifier/regulator, run hot.
All rectifiers need to dissipate heat. When mounting, consideration should be given to air circulation/flow and that the rectifiers fins are not obstructed. Some older Ducati’s had rectifiers mounted between tail section panels with little cut outs. Consequently they ran very hot and were prone to failure.
The main difference between OEM rectifiers and the many cheap copies you can find on the big e-retailers, is quality. Quality of components, manufacturing and quality control during manufacturing.
